St. Simons/ Jekyll

[FFing Duo]

I know this may be a stretch, but are there any possibilities to use my 6 wt on St. Simons or Jekyll and do it without the use of a boat? My mother-in-law lives down there and we are going down this weekend. We usually break out the spin gear and the shrimp, but it would be nice to try the fly rod if at all possible. Also how damaging will the salt be to an inexpensive fly reel even if it is properly rinsed?

Thanks,

Jonathan

[The Ole Man]

Jonathan
David Edens (Blue Ridge Rods)was headed to St.Simons the week after we had the Fly Fling. I gave him a crab fly, shrimp fly and a deceiver that I tied for him to try out there. Never got his report. Afraid to ask-he might have been skunked. You might e-mail him and see what he knows about the area.

[The Professor]

I was born and raised in Brunswick. Haven't flyfished down there yet (accent on yet). The only place that you can do anything like wading is at Gould's Inlet on St. Simons. Gould's separates Sea Island from St Simons and is at the end of the East Beach section. You will have to go at low tide (of course)and work the edge of the current. You might try the surf. I know of nothing on Jekyll. A boat would definitely increase your opprotunities. There's a fly shop there I think it's call Golden Isles... (I'll have to check the URL and post the data later). The owner also guides so he will know what the situation. If you can afford it, I would strongly recommend doing a 1/2 day with him.

BTW, a 6 wt should be OK, unless you happen to tie into something big. Be sure to use a stout leader.

[The Professor]

"Orvis/The Bedford Sportsman South
Located on St. Simons Island at 3405 Frederica Road. This Orvis store caters to the saltwater and freshwater fly fisherman in the Golden Isles region.

The shop is operated by local Orvis fly fishing guide Larry Kennedy and his wife Ellen."

quoted from web site

[davida]

Duo-
You can try using the six in saltwater. The limiting factors is not fish size, fly size but the wind. If you can cast it in windy conditions, the six will provide you with some thrills. In sheltered areas, it may be a good choice.

If the wind is bad, you might want to fish at dawn along the beach. Usually the wind lays down there and the fish will come in close enough to fish with a light fly rod. A mack on a six weight will be remembered fondly.

As far as tackle care- wash everything every day. I usually take my fly tackle with me into the shower. I usually taste my reels with my tongue to make sure that I have removed all the salt. Make sure to remove any sand from moving parts. Lubricate, if necessary. Some recommend using a car polish on the exterior prior to the trip. Use a q-tip to get into nooks and crannies, especially where dissimilar metals come together, since these are the spots that will corrode first. Don't forget the reel seat.

If you have a fly basket, bring it. It makes life so much easier in the surf. If not make one with a rubbermaid or the like dishpan and a bungee cord. A piece of astro turf or the like, glued to the bottom of the pan, will keep the line from falling out. A few drain holes might be helpful.

Best of luck-DA

[THE EG]

The Professor has it right. Larry Kennedy's son, Mike (I think), is also a USCG approved captain. Pick their brains, they're nice people. I was born and raised there also. One reason I'm learning the flyrod is to use it down there on the reds and the trout. It's virgin territory for flyfishing so be open-minded to exploring on your own. The boatramp on the causeway to St. Simons is accessable. Also, Jekyll has creeks just south of the pier that used to be accessable. On the south end of Jekyll their are a couple small parks with access to the back side of the island. There is less wind there. Also less wind on an outgoing tide. The downside of less wind is sand gnats. Realize that most of the fish key their feeding to the tides. So you could be fishing for a couple hours with no luck then start getting hits one after the other. Minnow imitations and shrimp should work. Though I won't use a flyrod, the tarpon get thick around July.

[FFing Duo]

Thanks everyone for the information. Jessica and I are both graduates of Glynn Academy. When we have fished down there we have either done the SSI or the Jekyll piers or the bridge on the Sea Island Causeway, or the south end Jekyll park that the Eg mentioned, but never with a fly rod. I had forgotten about Goulds... I've been to that fly shop, if only we could afford a guided trip.

Couple of other questions: Stout leader? Do I need wire or would a 2x/3x be good enough to start out with?

Flys: Minnow imitations and shrimp.... what sizes? As big as I can cast? what else?

Thanks again for the help. I can't wait until I can get a full range of equipment to meet any situation. Now where did I put my lottery ticket? http://www.georgia-outdoors.com/ubbngto/smile.gif

[The Professor]

FF Duo,
If I recall leaders for the saltwater run 8 to 20 lb test. Redfish leaders use the 15-20 lb range, specks a little lighter. The only thing in the area that would need wire is if you accidently ran into a 'cuda, rather unlikely.

The Eg,
Thanks for the info on Jekyll, like I said I've never fished the area with a flyrod and was not on the lookout for wadeable places.

Neal G.
Glynn Academy cl****of '65

[THE EG]

Usually wire isn't needed. Even the pup sharks don't usually cut it. I was in the Kennedy's place about a month ago. They have an assortmant of saltwater flies for sale. Be forewarned, they ran about $3.50 each. I think they were Clousers and Deceivers mostly in various colors.

Be wary of the mud. It's tough to get your feet out after the suction takes hold.

Small world. G.A. cl****of '79

[davida]

Salt water leader info-

Your maximum tippet strength should be determined by the strength of your backing. The tippet lb. test should never exceed 1/2 the strength of the backing. This is to avoid losing the line if a particularly feisty fish takes and involves possible stresses caused by friction caused by the relatively heavy fly line. Some authorities will opt for a 2/3 figure, but I think 1/2 is more reasonable and correct. If you need more strength than afforded by the backing used, then use a 12 inch shock tippet between the cl****tippet and the fly. I usually connect the shock to the cl****by either a huffnagle or more often, I use the easier albright.

A good easy to remember leader formula for saltwater has been published by Lefty Kreh. It entails halving the length of each subsequent strand of mono and then adding a 2 ft cl****tippet.

FOR EXAMPLE WITH A 6 WT. with 20 lb backing-

Use 5 feet 25 or 30 lb mono (Cheap ande or Trilene bulk will do nicely)
to which you blood knot
2 1/2 feet of 20 lb test
and then blood knot
1 1/4 feet of 15 lb test
and finish up by knotting on
2 feet of cl****tippet, either 10 or 8 lb test
and we end with a 10 + foot leader that casts well and is as delicate as we need. BTW, this is a very good bonefish leader.

If a shock tippet is needed, it would be added to the cl****tippet by the knots already mentioned. The fly would be knotted to the leader by either a non-slip mono loop, improved clinch knot, trilene, etc.

You can nail knot or use loops on the butt section of the leader depending on personal preference.

How do you determine what pound test leader butt goes with a particular fly line?
The best method is to attach line and leader and then bend the connection. If the transition creates a smooth u-shape, then the two are compatible and will provide optimal energy transfer.

Another modification i will do on my leaders is to boil the heavier mono strands in a container of water in the microwave to relax and soften the mono. The heating will weaken the mono but it creates a more pliant leader.

To accomplish this, take a selected strand of mono leader material and soak in water. Place the water container in the microwave till the mono goes limp. It will visbly relax.

Do not exceed 160 F or the mono will be severely weakened. After heating, check the mono by running through the fingers to make sure that the heating process has not damaged the mono.

Heated mono will be more relaxed, less curly and far more supple. I find that it promotes better energy transfer in certain situations.