Grip styles and sourcing

[Ivan]

I a have a couple of projects on the bench.

I building a 7'9 3 wt Forecast blank and 10' 4 wt. H H green IM 6 blank

I have used both cork and traditional real seats on rods in the past. I would like some input as to what you would do with either or the above.
Especally the 10' 4 wt. Western? Full Wells? fighting butt?

Ivan

[mmarkey]

Ivan

I just finished a Forcast 7'6' 3wt. yesterday. I used a smaller western style grip with a rosewood and Stainless steel seat. I used 9 guides 2 of which were stripper guides plus the tip top. I'll be posting photos as soon as I can. The Forcast is a nice little rod it's a medium action that reminds me of the
Winston WT JMHO.

I have no idea what to do with at 10 footer. It might make a nice nymph rod for High sticking, it'll give you a lot of reach.

Good luck with them keep us informed on how they turn out.

[GUTHOOKED]

Ivan,
I'd say this is mostly just a matter of personal preference. Do you turn your own grips? If so, the possibilities are endless. If it were mine, I'd probably do a pretty much standard western grip and uplocking seat for the 3wt. The long 4wt sounds like something to get a little more creative with, though. I like the idea of a full wells w/fighting butt, although I'd probably turn the grip a bit thinner than the average full wells. A while back, I saw a TV show with a guy who was fishing a custom fly rod with a split fighting butt about 3" long, similar to a split grip on a spinning rod, just shorter. Something like that could be interesting.

Oh well, just some ideas. Let us know what you end up doing with them.

Danny

[GonetoSeed]

I agree with Danny, concerning personal choice. Having to deal with the one-size-fits-all of factory rod grips - that didn't fit me - is one reason I started building. It wasn't so much that the factory rods were unfit and not fishable, personalizing just added a lot to comfort and a little to helping my casting stroke (which needs all the help it can get).

On a recent Forecast 7'9" 3wt I used a 1/2 Wells/Fenwick style grip. The rear tapered directly to the cork seat with an AL down locking cap and ring (REC). I like this seat because it is light. I used a shorter grip so it also placed the reel a little further back from my hand helping with balance. I like this shape because I grip a rod with my thumb on top and this shape gives me a "knob" to apply thumb pressure. One of my sons places his index finger on top when fishing light rods on small streams. He prefers a cigar grip with a long sloping front on which he can rest his finger.

On the 10', I like Danny's idea of a slim full wells. I think I would want it to be a little longer than "standard" so I had more room to move my hand around. This helps my hand from getting tired and I can "choke-up" some on the rod. Also, this along with the suggested fighting butt would provide some additional weight under and behind your hand to help balance the longer rod which most likely will lean toward being tip heavy if it's not offset.

I would also suggest for a rod this long and light line rating using as light guides as possible toward the tip to preserve the tip's efficiency. Extra weight, especially toward the tip, can noticeably slow the rods recovery speed. A good choice to consider would be the REC Recoil single foots. They have the added benefit of flexibility and durability. I know in my case, a rod this long might find its way into tree limbs on occasion :)

On a rod this long, you might also want to consider mmarkey's confiquration that includes an extra stripper. I sometimes do this by placing an extra double foot one size smaller than the stripper and 4" ahead. You will sometimes see this referred to as a tamer guide. Its purpose is to get control of the line spirals before they reach the running guides. If it helps or not depends on the blank and the other guide placement. So I place mine on the blank when the guides are temporarily attached. I test cast with and without the tamer. Then decide if it helps or not.

As far as sourcing, I can't remember if you turn your own or not. If not it is still possible to buy a pre-formed grip from one of the suppliers that you like to deal with and reshape it. Doing it all my hand would be time consuming or you might consider using a hand drill and a piece of all-thread as a mandrel. You are also welcome to use my lathe and mandrels if it is convenient.

[Ivan]

Good input. I do own some grips. I have a couple of Half Wells. I did not want to use them on these rods.

I like the guide advice. I will check into lighter guides for the 10'. The stripping guide test is something I will try as well. I think that I will probaly use a fenwick style grip on that rod with a 1' fighting butt.

On second thought I do like the spllit butt idea, since I plan on using it for high sticking; it might be comfortable with a longer butt. We'll see.

As for the 7'9 3wt. I think I'm going to a cork grip and reel seat combo.

The 10' 4 wt is the real challenge and I apprieciate any input on that build. It is intended for High Sticking Period! I want to expand on the Joe Humphery Level Line technique. I have been having a lot of success with it. It cuts down on the drag on the fly line and allows the nymph a longer drift on the bottom.

I do turn, using the old hand drill jig method. But mainly to reshape store bought grips.

My sources are Mudhole, Anglers,H&H,Netcraft,Cabelas and that guy in Tennesee.

Thanks again.

Ivan

[GonetoSeed]

I've never seen a split fighting butt on a flyrod. I think it would be very functional and cool looking on a rod this length. You could consider doing a nice thread wrap or marbling in the split or using it for the inscription area.

The only other input I have is to work to get the fulcrum point a couple of inches under the leading edge of the grip and under your fingers. So with the reel and line it would be a very little butt heavy. I think this would help balance the rod, especially keeping it in the high sticking position. A longer grip and fighting butt with burl or wood inlays may do this, or you could add a tiny bit o fweight like putty tungsten in the butt end opening.

Looking forward to seeing how it turns out and hearing about your experience fishing it.