Help! My handle bore is too big!

[Hollis]

I've had my fair share of problems with my first two projects. With a quick post, almost all of them have been solved. So here goes again:

I just discovered that the bore on my handle doesn't fit flush with the diameter of the rod that I'm building. It is a 6'6" 3Wt GLoomis mahogany color.

What can I do? Is this a normal problem? Should I order another handle? Won't all the handles come with the same bore in them? I thought about just doing masking tape bushings like the reel seat, however, I'm seeking the wisdom of those who have struggled before me.

Thanks a ton guys!

[Steve Hudson]

Don't despair -- that's often the norm, and it's easy to deal with. The quick approach, depending on how much too big it is, is to build a series of tape bushings (good-grade masking tape) so the grip fits. Be glad to talk to you on the phone about it, or if you're in the Alpharetta area drop by and I'll show you how. Very simple to do!

Best,

Steve Hudson

[Chuck Morris]

I agree with Steve. Go with the tape bushings and if you have a gap at the end of the grip put a winding check over it and you will never notice the gap. Or you can put an "O" ring on the blank and slide it down into the gap. It's worked for me in the past.

[GUTHOOKED]

Is the bore too big all the way down, or only at one end? If only the back end is too big, you really don't need to do anything. Assuming that you are using a reel seat with a recessed hood, the seat will keep the grip centered and epoxy will fill the gap. If its too big all the way down, go with the bushings. BTW, instead of masking tape, you can use mesh drywall tape to make bushings for your reel seat or grip. The epoxy penetrates the mesh and will give you a better bond than masking tape, IMO.

[mmarkey]

Are you referring to the cork grip or the reel seat. If it's the cork grip your referring to I would definetly get a new one. That is the same rod I built in january. I built that rod in january. (Search under mmarkey there are pictures.)

That rod takes a 1/4 in bore on the grip with a little taper toward the butt. What others have suggested will technically work but if you have a substantial gap between the rod and the grip. You will most likely have a bad gap at the end where the winding check goes. The winding check will probably not cover the gap giving a very unfinished look to the completed rod.

I would recommend saving this grip and getting a new lightweight grip for the very light rod your building. JMHO

[GonetoSeed]

I agree with the above that it depends on the size of the gap. If it's much more than 1 layer of tape (and I use mesh dry wall tape like Danny) or 1 spiral wrapped length of size D wrapping thread, I would follow mmarkey's advice and get a superfine type grip with a 1/4" bore. The reason is that if you have a long run of arbors (or tape) and you get a high point or other uneven spot, you may get a situation where the grip will rock. Even if it's just a little you will feel it and/or get a weird noise. There are ways to fix this like injecting epoxy with a needle and syringe, but it's a royal pain in the you know what. And don't ask how I know.

[Hollis]

My grip is a superfine and seems to be small. However, I'd gladly buy a 1/4" bore grip if that will solve my problem. This rod is looking really good with the Ti parts and will be my best one so far. I really want to do it right.

Any suggestions on where to buy a smaller bore grip? I've been using Hook and Hackle.

Thanks a ton guys.

[mmarkey]

Hollis when I built my Loomis 3 Wt I bought the grip and seat from Cabelas. They have a good assortment of grips. And I recomment talking to a specialist about the parts your ordering for the correct stuff. They're very helpful.

I originally had a superfine grip from H&H. I thought it was to small too. What I did was get a standard grip which is like a cigar grip but not tapered in the back kind of straight. I tapered this to a nice cigar shape (both ends) that was about an inch longer than the superfine from H&H and still much more graceful and better in the hand than the straight grip I bought from Cabelas. You can view my pictures that I posted in january, there is a post of before and after.

Easy to taper cork grips. Use a 1/4 inch threaded rod longer than the grip washers and nuts on both ends tighten down till firm (not too tight to crack cork) put into and electric drill. turn it on and sand down with about 200 grit till you get it to the shape you want then switch to about 400 grit to finish.

Hope this helps.

[GonetoSeed]

Hollis - sounds like you got a 5/16" (.312) bore. (I looked up your blank and its specs are butt = .290"). Is it a Struble from H&H? They are 5/16. H&H sells their own brand in 1/4 bore in a couple of different shapes. I think I would call Bob and ask him about it. He will probably make an exchange if you bought the original from him. Or, as suggested above keep this one for a future project and get Bob to send you another.

Also, if Superfines are too small for your hand, I think mmarkey's suggestion of buying a bigger grip and re-shaping is right on. Hand comfort, imo, far out weighs the additional weight (is this a pun, if so intended :) ).

[GUTHOOKED]

Have you thought about turning your own grip? Its really not hard to do, and you can usually get a much better grade of cork if you buy it in rings.

[Robert Hicks]

It's not hard at all. I'm using a hand drill to turn mine. I don't have room for a lathe, and the wife will not let me get the lathe that I want anyway...man I need to buy a house so I can have a real shop. ;)
If anyone needs help with the handdrill setup, let me know. It's easy and rather fun. I preform my grips off the rod, then pick the one that I like, and bore it to fit the rod. I open the bore up a little on each ring before I glue up....it's much easier to bore one ring at a time than it is to bore a whole grip.
My grips don't have the burl, or wood that some posted here do....but the hand drill method works great for cork.

[FlyBy]

Robert,

Can you give some more info on your hand drill lathe set-up?? That might work for me.

Thanks!

FlyBy

[Hollis]

Gone To Seed:
I do have a Struble ultra fine. I'm going to see about getting a Hook and Hackle brand grip.

I like the suggestion about buying a larger type handle and shaping it.

Now, how about that drill lathe setup?
Thanks guys-

BTW, Woodall, I haven't forgotten you. I ended up out after you called. I'll holler!

[Robert Hicks]

Here is a link to the hand drill setup. This is where I first read about it, and I have changed a few things that I just didn't feel were safe, for me or the rod.
http://www.thomaspenrose.com/cork.htm

I preform my grips off the rod, for the most part. Any final touch ups are done after the grip has been glued to the rod. I have some butt ends of rods that I use to stick into the unshaped grip, and pretty much do as Penrose does. I started shaping off the rod because I messed up pretty badly on a few, and had to keep cutting the grip off ....better to just toss the grip than have to spend time cutting it off. Once you get the hang of turing them, you'll not screw up as often. I would start off with some low grade cork just to get the feel....no point in ripping through the good stuff, until you know what to do ;)
Once the grip is on the rod any final touchups are done the way Penrose turns his grips. The only change is, I mount the butt end of the rod into the drill, not the female ferrule. Of course....you can do as you please...but I just don't see the point in risking that kind of "meltdown". Anything that you do to the butt end, will be covered by the reelseat....nothing covers the other end ;)