Rod Guides

[CAPT USA]

Snake guides or single foot circle guides?

When it comes to casting, shooting line, retrieving line(stripping), is one type guide better than another?

Thanks,

B

[GonetoSeed]

Except for <3wts, I prefer SF ceramics. The specific manufacturer and model (frame and insert materials) depends on the budget I've set for the rod, but my usual is Fuji Alconite or the equivalent from AmTak or Forecast. For <3wts I like the REC Recoil SFs. I would add 1 other criteria to your list - durability. I think the ceramics have a decided advantage for rods that are used a lot, especially under tougher conditions, like SW. imo, SF ceramics have some advantages and not real downsides (except weight if not sized properly) so why not use them. The only common complaint that I hear is that they aren't "traditional" and makes the rod look like a spinning rod.

btw, I don't personally think it is ceramic guides alone that improves performance in a noticeable amount. They do improve casting/shooting a small amount. What I do think makes a very noticeable difference is their contribution to the total effect of a "better" system: the ceramic inserts add slickness, you can use a "better" (more) number of guides specific to the blank's curve under load because the new light weight frames and inserts doesn't have a material weight penalty (usually 1 or 2 guides more than a factory model).

[Ivan]

Are you saying you would not use those kids on 3 wts

[GonetoSeed]

I do use them on 3wts, most of the time. I was trying to use the symbol for less than. I have used REC Recoils or the Pac Bay light wire on 3wts, but it's only when the angler really, really doesn't like the look of ceramics. The reason I like them on small stream 3wts is for the exta "shootability". Shooting is discussed a lot in heavier rods as a way to get that extra yardage for long distances. I think shooting is also very helpful in close quarters to get a little extra "footage" when you can't really load up the rod with false cast or you're bending it close breaking when bow and arrowing :). Of course, as being discussed in another thread, the line also has a large part in shooting.

It's 2wts (haven't built a 1wt, yet) that I consistently use SF wires. As I mentioned in a post for Windknot, on my next 2wt and maybe 3wt, I'm going to try the Hopkins & Holloway wire stand-offs to see if I get a lot of the performance of ceramics but with less weight. This is because, on rods 4wt and below when prepping the feet, I remove the extra foot material that looks like an arrow head and shorten the foot a little. This is to keep the weight as low as possible. I then use a security wrap or a Forhan locking wrap for insurance. I'm not concerned with it moving around the blank. The security/locking wrap keeps it from pulling if it's snagged on something, e.g., on a limb while bushwhacking. I'm hoping that the stand-offs won't require the extra prepping, it's my least favorite step in building.