Dremel Bugs

[Chuck Morris]

A little slide show on how I make Dremel bugs.
A piece of flip-flop inserted on the needle prior to shaping
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v235/sirrom/MVC-156F.jpg
The first stage of shaping (rounding the form out) takes 10 to 20 seconds
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v235/sirrom/MVC-157F.jpg
Starting to form the shape
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v235/sirrom/MVC-158F.jpg
The shape close to its final form
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v235/sirrom/MVC-160F.jpg
the final shape
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v235/sirrom/MVC-161F.jpg
These were all formed from blank to final form in about 20 minutes
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v235/sirrom/MVC-162F.jpg
Sealed, primed and ready to paint
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v235/sirrom/MVC-154F.jpg
My Bass Sawp fly
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v235/sirrom/MVC-144F.jpg
All painted and ready to tie.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v235/sirrom/MVC-153F.jpg
As you can see there are endless forms that can be made with this method.
More detailed info on Dremel bugs can be found at FAOL (Fly Anglers On Line) under the Fly Tying section in the Fly Archives.
I fine finish the foam with 1000 grit sandpaper glued on a popsicle stick.
Seal the foam with 2 coats of Delta Ceramacoat All-Purpose sealer.
Undercoat with white acrylic paint. I airbrush my bugs using acrylic paint. If you use acrylic paint in your airbrush thin it to the proper consistency by first making a mixture of Gloss medium (NOT MATTE) and water on a 50/50 ratio then use this mixture with your acrylic color to get the proper airbrushing consistency.
I know that there are many questions concerning these bugs, so feel free to ask away and I'll be happy to try and answer.
Happy forming and tying.
Chuck

[bonedog]

Awesome, awesome, awesome stuff, Chuck!!! I bought a Dremel tool with the intention of trying this. Did you just cut a piece of foam for your initial blank or did you punch it out with something??
Thanks,
bd

[Chuck Morris]

BD,
I just cut a flip flop into strips and then cut to length. I try and cut them so that they are square in across section. Other sources of foam are children's foam puzzles, foam garden knee pads, foam stamps,( I just bought some at The Pottery in Commerce for 10 cents each.)
For the larger bugs I use cylinders of foam that I bought at Michaels or Hobby Lobby, (on sale,of course).
A couple of more things that I should have put in the initial post.
I use a flex shaft attachment and a foot control on my Dremel. I hold it my hand to shape, but you can build a small lathe type setup if you desire.
I use inexpensive carboard type nail files for my initial shaping. You can get them at just about any dollar type store.
One other thing, PLEASE use some sort of protection for your eyes and lungs.
Chuck

[DM6156]

nice! I picked up some of those foam marshmallows from the hobby store and was going to try to make some bass bugs but i haven't gotten around to it yet. I do have the dremel with flex attachment, but not a foot control.

what kind of airbrush gear do you use? I suppose any hobby airbrush set would work.

[Chuck Morris]

Dan,
I have and use several airbrushes. the two I use most are the Aztec and a Badger, both are double action. I use a piston type air compressor with both oil and moisture traps, a separate pressure control, and a 10 gallon reservoir tank.
For paints I use acrylic paints by Createx, Badger, and some of the Craft store variety thinned with airbrush medium. Most used paint is that used in taxidermy called Polytranspar, which is distributed locally by WASCO (Wildlife Artist Supply Company) in Monroe, Ga. This comes in fishy colors(bass belly white, bass and trout light green, medium green, dark green etc.), irridescents, shimmers, and pearls. I am not affliliated with any of these companies except by being a customer.
For cleaning between colors use an ammonia based cleaner and water.
Clean thoroughly when you are done for the day. Tear the brush apart and clean.
Once again use protection when airbrushing.
Chuck

[PapaDoc]

Thanks for the pictures. You are basically using the Dremel like a lathe. What are you using to attach the foam to the Dremel. And what is the "stick" that seems to remain attached to the bug? Ingenious!

[Chuck Morris]

I use either a darning needle or a regular Dremel bit that has been modified to attach the foam to the Dremel. Pictured is a darning needle. Just be sure that if you use a needle that you have one that fits securely in the collet. Collets come in different sizes so you may have to buy one to fit the needle or buy a needle to fit the collet. You want the needle to spin as true as possible. (Very little or no wobble).
The mysterious "stick" is the super secret toothpick! ;) It is just something to hold onto when painting and then can be stuck in soft foam to dry.
Chuck

[Trout8myfly]

Chuck have you ever tried using balsa wood? I know it's more expensive thna a pair flip flops but I also wondered if it floats as well as the foam and if can be shaped any better or differently.

Do you use a foot switch made by Dremel or just a basic on-off switch? ANd how do you attach the popper biody to the hook? Cut a slit or poke it through the hole left by the darning needle?

[Chuck Morris]

George,
Haven't tried balsa or cork as of yet. I have some cork stoppers that I'm going to try sometime soon. I'll get some balsa and try that also. Will report results when I do.
I have a Foredom brand foot switch, not sure of the cost, but I think they run about $30-35. I got mine free from a guy I used to work with.
Attaching to the hook. Usually I just measure the foam body length against the hook, mark where the foam body ends, tie in the tail material etc. and build up a body of unwaxed dental floss, add superglue and then place hook, being careful to remove excess superglue as I push the body back onto the hook.
If you desire the hook to be mounted lower in the body, you can fill (prior to painting) the center hole with dimensional fabric paint, let dry and then cut a slit in the body. After attaching you can fill in the slit with fabric paint, let dry and then paint. Or you can trim off some of the body and then mount through the hole as described above. I recommend painting before mounting, if possible.
I'm sure that there are other ways to do these things, but these are the methods that I employ.
Chuck
Just thought of something (I know thinking is dangerous for me). I remember an article in Fly Tying magazine by "Fishy" Fullum called Pencil Sharpener Poppers. I just looked it up and it is in the Autumn 2001 issue. He uses balsa sticks and a pencil sharpener and an emery board to make poppers. Might have to do some experimenting.

[bonedog]

Couple more questions, Chuck. I should have written down what you told me Friday. 1) What were the hooks that you said worked well??? Eagle Claw something but I can't remember the number. 2) Also, what was the source of unwaxed floss that you recomended?? Something at Wal Mart or craft stores if I remember correctly. 3) Lastly, you do put the hook through the finished body eye first, correct?? I'm almost ready to get these things going on. I have some polyurethane for the final finish after painting. I think it is flexible and will work. 4) Or not????
Thanks in advance and thanks for the finished bodies the other day,
bd

PS. Actually that was 4 questions. Thanks.

[Chuck Morris]

Bonedog et al,
1. Hooks were Eagle Claw 214 or 215. The 215 is longer. Any long shank, straight eye will work.
2. Unwaxed dental floss or Wal-mart bead thread (Craft section)
3. Eye first through the body from rear to front.
4. Not sure about polyurethane (don't know how flexible) If it's flexable it should work OK. Recommend Delta Ceramcoat Gloss Exterior/Interior Varnish. (Wal-mart, Hobby Lobby, Michael's)
Recommend a minimum of 4 coats with at least 1 hour drying time between coats.
Hope this answers your questions.
Chuck

[bonedog]

Perfect, thanks, Chuck.
bd

[Counslrman]

Chuck,
A while back, my wife bought some disposable ear plugs from CVS. They came in a plastic jar and there were 50 for $5-$6 (+ OR -). I used one to make a strike indicator by slicing a wafer off it. They are cylindrical foam and measure about 1 inch height by 1/2 inch diameter. I don't know if they would work for your purposes or not, but that wafer I made sure floats well.
Tight lines!
Jimmy

[Chuck Morris]

Jimmy,
Thanks for the info.
Chuck