Chuck Morris
08-08-07, 10:00 AM
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Hook: Dry Fly 6-22 (This is a Mustad 94840 #12)
Tail: Moose
Wing: Light colored Elk ( I really like using Toule Elk, shot with a bow at a range of approx. 18 yards) or White Calf Body
Hot Spot: DMC embroidery thread E980 (Flourescent Yellow)
Hump: 2mm Black craft foam or color of choice
Body: Peacock Herl
Hackle: Black
Tying Instructions:
1. Start thread base in the center of the hook. Wrap to bend and back to almost the center of the hook.
2. Select, clean and stack a small amount of moose hair. Give the clump of hair a half twist, the clump's circumference, (at the twist over point) should equal the outside diameter of the hook eye. This is the proper amount of hair for the tail. Note: This works for just about any hair tail.
3. The length of the tail equals the length of the hook shank. Tie on the tail and trim waste at the halfway point of the hook. Put a drop of head cement on the end of the cut and tie down.
4. Wrap the thread forward to the 1/3 point of the hook. Select, clean and stack a clump of elk (calf) hair (2X the diameter of the tail). Tie the clump of hair on the near side of the hook using 3 (snug but not tight) thread wraps, and then pull back on the base of the hair to adjust the wing length.
5. Pull the bobbin to tighten the thread and raise the hair to the top of the hook. Wrap thread towards the end of the hook: bind the butt ends of the wing over the butt end of the tail. Cut the excess wing fibers opposite the hook point, cut the excess fibers straight up and down. Add head cement and bind down.
6. Advance the thread to the front of the wing, push the wing up and brace it with quite a few turns of thread in front of the wing. Split the wings into 2 equal sections and figure eight them to separate and support them. Add head cement to the wing base area.
7. Wrap the thread back to where the wing butts were cut off. Take a strand of the embroidery thread and tie in. Wrap a small butt section of the hot butt up to where the wing butt is located. Tie off and trim excess embroidery thread.
8. Take a piece of black foam strip approx. 3-4 mm wide and about 1 1/2 inches long, trim the end to a point and tie in over the wing base. tie in 3-4 peacock herls by the tips, add head cement over the body area and then quickly wrap the herl body. Tie off and trim herl.
9. Pull the foam hump over the herl body and tie down behind the wing, then take the thread and X it over the foam between the wings. Tie down in front of the wings and trim excess.
10. Return tying thread to behind the wing. Select proper sized hackle and tie in. Wrap hackle forward, tie off, trim, form a neat head, whip finish and add head cement.
Note:To tie a regular Humpy cut both the tail and the wings on an angle to form a smooth base. Then tie in the foam and tie down back to the tail.
Note: You will notice that I use head cement throughout the tying process. I feel that it gives my flies much more durability.
The head cement that I use is one that I got from George Harvey's book "Techniques of Trout Fishing and Fly Tying". It is made with 1 part Shoe Goo (Big Lots approx. $3 for a 3.7 oz tube) and Toluene (Sherman Williams E-Z lacquer thinner approx $5 quart). You may have to play with the proportions to get the consistency you desire. I like it fairly thin, so that it will penetrate the tying thread, and just a little thicker when I'm using it as an adhesive for wrapping bodies. It's a homemade Flexament. I have several containers with different consistencies on my tying desk. When it begins to get too thick I just add more solvent. BTW other solvents, other than Toluene will also work.
WARNING. Use only glass containers for this mixture. It is extremely flammable and breathing the vapors is not recommended. Be sure and read and adhere to the warnings regarding these products.
Chuck
Hook: Dry Fly 6-22 (This is a Mustad 94840 #12)
Tail: Moose
Wing: Light colored Elk ( I really like using Toule Elk, shot with a bow at a range of approx. 18 yards) or White Calf Body
Hot Spot: DMC embroidery thread E980 (Flourescent Yellow)
Hump: 2mm Black craft foam or color of choice
Body: Peacock Herl
Hackle: Black
Tying Instructions:
1. Start thread base in the center of the hook. Wrap to bend and back to almost the center of the hook.
2. Select, clean and stack a small amount of moose hair. Give the clump of hair a half twist, the clump's circumference, (at the twist over point) should equal the outside diameter of the hook eye. This is the proper amount of hair for the tail. Note: This works for just about any hair tail.
3. The length of the tail equals the length of the hook shank. Tie on the tail and trim waste at the halfway point of the hook. Put a drop of head cement on the end of the cut and tie down.
4. Wrap the thread forward to the 1/3 point of the hook. Select, clean and stack a clump of elk (calf) hair (2X the diameter of the tail). Tie the clump of hair on the near side of the hook using 3 (snug but not tight) thread wraps, and then pull back on the base of the hair to adjust the wing length.
5. Pull the bobbin to tighten the thread and raise the hair to the top of the hook. Wrap thread towards the end of the hook: bind the butt ends of the wing over the butt end of the tail. Cut the excess wing fibers opposite the hook point, cut the excess fibers straight up and down. Add head cement and bind down.
6. Advance the thread to the front of the wing, push the wing up and brace it with quite a few turns of thread in front of the wing. Split the wings into 2 equal sections and figure eight them to separate and support them. Add head cement to the wing base area.
7. Wrap the thread back to where the wing butts were cut off. Take a strand of the embroidery thread and tie in. Wrap a small butt section of the hot butt up to where the wing butt is located. Tie off and trim excess embroidery thread.
8. Take a piece of black foam strip approx. 3-4 mm wide and about 1 1/2 inches long, trim the end to a point and tie in over the wing base. tie in 3-4 peacock herls by the tips, add head cement over the body area and then quickly wrap the herl body. Tie off and trim herl.
9. Pull the foam hump over the herl body and tie down behind the wing, then take the thread and X it over the foam between the wings. Tie down in front of the wings and trim excess.
10. Return tying thread to behind the wing. Select proper sized hackle and tie in. Wrap hackle forward, tie off, trim, form a neat head, whip finish and add head cement.
Note:To tie a regular Humpy cut both the tail and the wings on an angle to form a smooth base. Then tie in the foam and tie down back to the tail.
Note: You will notice that I use head cement throughout the tying process. I feel that it gives my flies much more durability.
The head cement that I use is one that I got from George Harvey's book "Techniques of Trout Fishing and Fly Tying". It is made with 1 part Shoe Goo (Big Lots approx. $3 for a 3.7 oz tube) and Toluene (Sherman Williams E-Z lacquer thinner approx $5 quart). You may have to play with the proportions to get the consistency you desire. I like it fairly thin, so that it will penetrate the tying thread, and just a little thicker when I'm using it as an adhesive for wrapping bodies. It's a homemade Flexament. I have several containers with different consistencies on my tying desk. When it begins to get too thick I just add more solvent. BTW other solvents, other than Toluene will also work.
WARNING. Use only glass containers for this mixture. It is extremely flammable and breathing the vapors is not recommended. Be sure and read and adhere to the warnings regarding these products.
Chuck