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Thread wrap glue /epoxy

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  • Thread wrap glue /epoxy

    What should i be looking for if I wanted to cover some thread wraps on a single rod guide? Is that U40 stuff what I need ? I figure I only need a tiny bottle of this stuff..
    Or do I need something two part?

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
    _yero on instagram

  • #2
    Thread Wraps

    Used both U40 and 2 part . In my experience you may have to use a few more coats of the U40 . The U40 is easy because there is no mixing and bubbles to worry about .
    If you use a lite build epoxy probably 2 coats . Threadmaster or Flex Coat lite. Regular , you can get by with one . You will need to turn to get an even coat .If you want the thread to remain the same color use a color preserver .


    • #3
      U40 has 2 products for thread wraps.

      Perma-gloss is a 1 part urethane that cures with moisture from the air. If it's warm and humid it doesn't have a long working window. Not that it's real short but when you lay down a thin coat it gets a lot of surface exposure and will kick over quickly if it's humid. Supposed to be best if you want a super thin look for your wraps.

      The other is LS Supreme (I think that's right) which is a 2 part epoxy. I've read epoxy penetrates better but don't know if that's true. I use Threadmaster Lite and will put on 3-4 very thin coats.
      These brook trout will strike any fly you present, provided you don't get close enough to present it.
      -- Dick Blalock


      • #4
        If it's not a mega dollar rod that you want to be perfect, you can use polyurethane and spar varnish. Here's an article from a rod builder that became sensitized to epoxy and had to switch to varnishes or quit building. If you just want to finish the wraps to get your rod back to fishable condition at a small cost just get a half pint of gloss clear polyurethane at Lowes /Home Depot or your fav hardware store. Use about 5 coats with an artists brush. Don't apply too much at a time and sit and rotate your rod by hand until the poly is set enough not to slump.


        • #5
          Thanks, i think these were just the answers I was looking for!

          to The Ole Man: are you saying I can use Polyurethane alone if I just want my rod back in fishable condition?

          And if I want 'something more', then I use spar varnish in addition to that?

          Or do I need to use the spar varnish in combination with the Polyurethane either way?

          _yero on instagram


          • #6
            You can use poly alone if you aren't looking for the hardest, most brilliant, best UV and weather protection that Mr Lewis puts on his mostly premium rods. If it starts looking a little rough, dry or weathered you can put on additional poly or spar over. You might want to warm it (not hot) a bit to make it flow and penetrate the threads better. Note that Lewis says it takes about 3 weeks for Poly to obtain it's max hardness. He also says some warmth (not high heat) speeds it up. I did a Sage Light Line rod with Gudebrod Rod Varnish 15 years ago and it still lloks great. The Gudebrod was pretty thin and I put on 20 light coats. If 5 coats don't show smooth on the thread you can use more.