Do these things work? - Page 2

VPW001 · 07-01-12, 01:51 PM

Being old and shaky, I need to get my legs under me to stand up. I thought that a SOT kayak would not be easy to get in and out of. After reading about the various modifications people do to the 119's I picked one up.

I was right about the seat. The one in the 119 was too low for me as well but I knew that going in.

Here is one nice modification to a 119. BTW, spot the urinal. Great idea for a shop.

http://riverbassin.com/forum/showthr...gnature-Series

Pappy · 07-01-12, 02:42 PM

What a work of art. I doubt that IF I had a shop like that, that it would look that neat.
I guess I could do the same thing thou. I got all the tools.
Is this canoe considdered to be on of the most stable?

VPW001 · 07-01-12, 04:02 PM

I guess it is stable as far as canoes go. Much more stable than I recall from 50 years ago and we never did tip then.

There are things to do as far as seating goes. A few folks have RAISED the seat and moved it forward and insist that it is more stable. A few others have made it a bit fatter.

http://riverbassin.com/forum/showthr...imate-119-baby!

http://www.warmfly.com/smf/index.php?topic=5782.0

http://www.georgiariverfishing.com/p...ic.php?t=11895

http://riverbassin.com/forum/showthr...ighlight=guide
Quote Originally Posted by dimecovers3 View Post
What do you mean you spread the hull? By how much? What does that do? Did you do it with just a wider seat base?
I spread the beam width. Of course I had to strip everything out of the boat, but before, take good measurements of what your beam width is at stock position. Kneel down in the boat on solid, flat level ground and (have the dead center of the boat marked), push out on the gunwales at the center marks. DO NOT force anything, just push until you are met with decent resistance, and have a buddy measure just under the gunwales on the sides. Then cut a 2x4 to that exact length. Push open again and let your buddy side the 2x4 in up and under tight to the gunwales. Now, your stock thwarts are not gonna fit, they will be too short. You'll havta buy or make new custom thwarts. The stock seat wont fit anymore wither, but I knew I was getting rid of that hard seat when I bought it...lol... My 119 went from a 32.5 inch beam width to a 35" width with no problems, no warping or twisting of any kind. The floor flattened out some and the chines took a sharper "roll" up to the sides. Along with dropping the seat 1 inch, the wider beam width along with the flatter bottom and better roll to the sides, my 119 went from being a "OK" boat in the stability department to fantastically stable. A few friends have paddled it and all have commented that they've never been in a short solo canoe that stable, and still maneuvers and paddles good.

For some reason I can't see where this stuff covers moving the seat forward. Let me know if you agree that it doesn't and you are interested in the subject.

I bought standard canoe paddles for it but I am going to get a kayak paddle.

Pappy · 07-01-12, 05:56 PM

VPW Thanks for the research. It looks like I may need a canoe. Now I guess its time to just relax and find a deal.
I did read tho that you still couldn't stand up.
I guess that where the outriggers might come into play.

Have you seen the foam that attaches to the sides of the canoe? some use noodles.

VPW001 · 07-01-12, 07:31 PM

I am not going to try standing but many can and do. I figure that I can always park and walk if the urge hits me.

As I said many seem to be able to stand in the 119 and in the OT Guide 146

"I use the 14' Guide extensively. I think I logged about 40 trips in it last year; standing most of the time, even in some pretty heavy rapids. I ran the entirety from Johnson Ferry down to the 41 Bridge take out standing up one day just to say I had done it, including the Devil's Racecourse. The flanges on the side of the hull make it an exceptionally stable canoe, and it paddles very well with one man in the back and a load of gear (for instance a cooler) in the front to stabilize." http://www.itinerantangler.com/cgi-b...1330982510/5#5

And
http://georgiariverfishing.com/phpBB...p?f=16&t=13638

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07-01-12, 01:51 PM	#11
VPW001 Native Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Marietta, GA Posts: 397	Being old and shaky, I need to get my legs under me to stand up. I thought that a SOT kayak would not be easy to get in and out of. After reading about the various modifications people do to the 119's I picked one up. I was right about the seat. The one in the 119 was too low for me as well but I knew that going in. Here is one nice modification to a 119. BTW, spot the urinal. Great idea for a shop. http://riverbassin.com/forum/showthr...gnature-Series

07-01-12, 02:42 PM	#12
Pappy Native Join Date: May 2012 Location: Blue Ridge, GA Posts: 111	What a work of art. I doubt that IF I had a shop like that, that it would look that neat. I guess I could do the same thing thou. I got all the tools. Is this canoe considdered to be on of the most stable?

07-01-12, 04:02 PM	#13
VPW001 Native Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Marietta, GA Posts: 397	I guess it is stable as far as canoes go. Much more stable than I recall from 50 years ago and we never did tip then. There are things to do as far as seating goes. A few folks have RAISED the seat and moved it forward and insist that it is more stable. A few others have made it a bit fatter. http://riverbassin.com/forum/showthr...imate-119-baby! http://www.warmfly.com/smf/index.php?topic=5782.0 http://www.georgiariverfishing.com/p...ic.php?t=11895 http://riverbassin.com/forum/showthr...ighlight=guide Quote Originally Posted by dimecovers3 View Post What do you mean you spread the hull? By how much? What does that do? Did you do it with just a wider seat base? I spread the beam width. Of course I had to strip everything out of the boat, but before, take good measurements of what your beam width is at stock position. Kneel down in the boat on solid, flat level ground and (have the dead center of the boat marked), push out on the gunwales at the center marks. DO NOT force anything, just push until you are met with decent resistance, and have a buddy measure just under the gunwales on the sides. Then cut a 2x4 to that exact length. Push open again and let your buddy side the 2x4 in up and under tight to the gunwales. Now, your stock thwarts are not gonna fit, they will be too short. You'll havta buy or make new custom thwarts. The stock seat wont fit anymore wither, but I knew I was getting rid of that hard seat when I bought it...lol... My 119 went from a 32.5 inch beam width to a 35" width with no problems, no warping or twisting of any kind. The floor flattened out some and the chines took a sharper "roll" up to the sides. Along with dropping the seat 1 inch, the wider beam width along with the flatter bottom and better roll to the sides, my 119 went from being a "OK" boat in the stability department to fantastically stable. A few friends have paddled it and all have commented that they've never been in a short solo canoe that stable, and still maneuvers and paddles good. For some reason I can't see where this stuff covers moving the seat forward. Let me know if you agree that it doesn't and you are interested in the subject. I bought standard canoe paddles for it but I am going to get a kayak paddle.

07-01-12, 05:56 PM	#14
Pappy Native Join Date: May 2012 Location: Blue Ridge, GA Posts: 111	VPW Thanks for the research. It looks like I may need a canoe. Now I guess its time to just relax and find a deal. I did read tho that you still couldn't stand up. I guess that where the outriggers might come into play. Have you seen the foam that attaches to the sides of the canoe? some use noodles.

07-01-12, 07:31 PM	#15
VPW001 Native Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Marietta, GA Posts: 397	I am not going to try standing but many can and do. I figure that I can always park and walk if the urge hits me. As I said many seem to be able to stand in the 119 and in the OT Guide 146 "I use the 14' Guide extensively. I think I logged about 40 trips in it last year; standing most of the time, even in some pretty heavy rapids. I ran the entirety from Johnson Ferry down to the 41 Bridge take out standing up one day just to say I had done it, including the Devil's Racecourse. The flanges on the side of the hull make it an exceptionally stable canoe, and it paddles very well with one man in the back and a load of gear (for instance a cooler) in the front to stabilize." http://www.itinerantangler.com/cgi-b...1330982510/5#5 And http://georgiariverfishing.com/phpBB...p?f=16&t=13638